Heres a little technique for you kiddies.
A while back I was putting in the linelock and got my ass kicked by a brake line B-nut for about a week. And again today the rear brake/ hose intersection was being a bit.
If you've ever been down this road, here's a little trick I thought of on my way to sleep one night. I'm claiming this one.
If the pipe starts to spin with the rotation of the B-nut, your days of a non-leaking brake line are numbered. Corrosion has set in and literally fuses the B-nut to the brake line and then the B-nut cannot spin independent of the line and all kinds of shit happens then.
Especially if you break the line which goes from the P-valve to the right front brake, 'cos in most old cars, that brake line goes in while the engine is not installed.
And brake line splices are terrible. ...Just not the safest and look like hell as well.
So- here you are, applying kroil and judicious heat and the damn line is still turning with the B-nut. Keep it up and soon enough you will have a cracked pipe (not a crack pipe)...
Well, breathe deep. Break the B-nut loose. Kroil that stubborn little bastard one more time and head to your tool box.
Open the plumbing drawer.
Get the flaring tool set out and obtain the pipe clamp.
Now hopefully, you have enough room to slip the pipe clamp over your troubled brake line. Clamp it as close to the B-nut as you can while still allowing room for your wrench to fit the B-nut.
Tighten the pipeclamp onto the brakeline.... and give the B-nut hell. The short distance will make the corrosion bonds break and the B-nut will spin independent.
I always win.
Wednesday, April 17, 2013
I did modify them so that more than one little restrictive 2 inch inlet tube would be used. These style sidepipes have the first three inlet tubes as "decoration" and the furthest aft tube is the factory inlet. This pair had major corrosion goin on in the original inlet tubes and because of that, I proceeded to farnkenstein the hell out of them.
You may think I'm spending a ridiculous amount of time on the exhaust, but I think how a vehicle sounds is just as important as how it looks. Maybe even more important...
Needless to say, me coming from a muscle car which was well equipped with a freely revving mill talking through twin dual chamber Flowmasters, I was disappointed with what the sidepipes sounded like.
It didnt rumble. It sounded like a station wagon with plugged glasspack. Not terrifying enough.
With a little help from ol' Speedy Bill, I'm trying to change that. Got a coupla turnouts, some straight pipe and the good-old auger muffler insert to take the edge off the noise....
In a few days time, I will see if I succeeded.
|The turnout. 3.5 inch and it has an expanded slipover section. Easy-peasy.|
|A little sectioning on the 50 dollar Kalamazoo|
|Kentucky 'lignment and a tack or three|
|Playing with where I think it shouldn't go.|
|Wound up placing it just past the bluge transition. Note the slipover is notched and comes with a pinchbolt. Nice, eh?|
|All smooved ova. Now I gotta mount em....|
|1/2" square stock I will use as weld nuts to weld to the sidepipes for mounting to the hanger straps.|